Fogo Island in pictures...

... because words cannot even begin to describe the experience.

Fogo Island Inn

The Great Auk

The Sheds

A feast of wild blueberries

The Pitcher Plant is the official flower of Newfoundland

Oliver's Cove

The old farm at Oliver's Cove

Tilting

Squish Studio artist residence in Tilting

Long Studio artist residence in Joe Batt's Arm

Nice, breezy day to air your quilts

The climb to Brimstone Head

Sign at the top of Brimstone Head

Brimstone Head from below

The fishing shed - an iconic part of Newfoundland and its history

"We were expecting you."

 

Cashin’s Chestnut Tree Café

It never ceases to amaze us just how friendly Newfoundlanders are. We were stopped at the end of the driveway to a private campground, deciding whether we wanted to spend the night there or continue on a bit further, when a fellow came up to the RV and started chatting.

He introduced himself as Sean Callahan, son of former NL cabinet minister Bill Callahan. Bill Callahan served under Joey Smallwood (Newfoundland’s first premier after confederation in 1949) and was responsible for the creation of Gros Morne National Park, making the west coast of Newfoundland the tourist destination it is today.

Sean also, upon learning this was our first time in Newfoundland, offered many suggestions of places to see and visit, and even gave us his phone number - in case we needed more ideas on places to go. One restaurant he highly recommended was the Cashin’s Chestnut Tree Café in Gambo, a town located about a half-hour’s drive east of Gander. Turns out, his friend Billy Cashin owns the café, and there’s a bit of a story behind the restaurant, and the town itself.

We we were heading in that direction a few days later, so took Sean’s advice and stopped into the Chestnut Tree (known to the locals as Billy’s Café) for lunch. That is, we drove by twice looking for the restaurant, before realizing it was completely obscured by the giant (we guessed chestnut) tree in front.

Wandering in, we told Billy that Sean recommended we stop in for a meal. He said, after making a few jokes about his friend, “We were expecting you.” I’m not sure we received any extra special treatment for dropping names (because everyone there was friendly with everyone), but the food was fresh and delicious, and served in huge portions. And although Billy was too busy to chat with us that day, he did send us on our way with a bag of freshly made chocolate chip cookies. Yum!

So, what’s so special about Gambo, and the Chestnut Tree Cafe? For a start, Joey Smallwood was born in Gambo in 1900. There is a statue commemorating him in the centre of town, very near the Chestnut Tree Café. And stepping into the café is a bit like stepping back into Smallwood’s time. Originally a general store located a short distance down the road, Billy acquired the building and moved it to it’s current location to open a café/bookstore/general store. The interior is an eclectic, yet inviting, mix of old and new and just plain odd - the original store counters from 1938, paintings on the wall from local artists, a wood and glass cabinet filled with antique shoes and other curiosities, and Christmas decorations adorning the piano in the corner of the adjoining room.

Inside Billy's eclictic Café

There’s a joke about Newfoundlanders. It’s a knock-knock joke. It goes something like this:

“Why are Newfoundlanders bad at knock-knock jokes?”

“I don’t know. Why?”

“Well, let's try it. I’ll be a Newfoundlander. Say knock-knock.”

“Okay. Knock-knock.”

“Come on in, the door’s open!”

That kind of sums up our trip here. We’ve never felt more welcomed by the land, the culture, and the people, than here in Newfoundland.

At the crossroads of the world

Gander Airport in the early years (photo credit Library and Archives Canada)

On yet another recommendation by a local, we stopped at the Gander International Airport. The woman said we had to check out the International Departures Lounge, and make sure to visit the washrooms, too.

What??

The airport was opened in 1938, and by the 1950’s it was one of the busiest international airports in the world, and known as ‘the crossroads of the world’. Why, you ask? In those days, non-stop transatlantic flights did not exist. Airplanes needed to refuel, and the international airport in Gander was the perfect refuelling location. So, anyone who was anyone has been to Gander - or at least the Gander International Airport. Marilyn Monroe, Clarke Gable, Jimmy Stewart, Mohammed Ali, Einstein, and even Fidel Castro - they have all flown in and out of Gander.

And the bathrooms? I sat in the same spot where Queen Elizabeth II sat to powder her nose in the women’s washroom when she came to open the international terminal building in 1959. Apparently there is a similar “Frank Sinatra was here” sign in the men’s room, though I didn’t sneak in to check.

Queen Elizabeth II sat here!

The main floor of the departures lounge is a throwback to the era when travel was still new and exotic. Although the passenger benches and chairs are new, the architecture, the travertine floors, and even the modernist clocks on the wall are all original.

Original decor in the International Departures Lounge

The upper floor has been made into a museum of sorts, depicting the history of the airport and filled with photos and paraphernalia related to the high times of flight.

Oh, and did I mention the only movie theatre in town is in the Gander International Airport Departures Lounge?

A day trip to the airport? I never expected it would be so fascinating!

It seems neither D nor I bothered to take many photos, so sadly, you’ll have to take my word for it. Or visit the airport yourself. If you’re flying, you will have to arrange a special layover, since transatlantic flights no longer require a stop in Gander to refuel.

Chance encounter with a local

 

Colourful fishing sheds at Chapel Arm

A short two-kilometre drive from the TCA (that’s what the Trans Canada Highway is called in Newfoundland) is the town of Chapel Arm. Most likely named by Captain James Cook sometime between 1765 and 1772 while surveying the coastal waters of Trinity Bay, the community is small, but has all the conveniences a resident would need - two churches, a post office, and a hardware store. Oh, and a lovely harbour and government dock for the fishing boats.

Traditional way of making salted cod

We stopped in Chapel Arm for the night, choosing to stay at the government dock parking lot (that is allowed unless otherwise posted) with it’s lovely view of the bay. We no sooner parked and were out of the RV checking out our new surroundings when a car drove up and an older fellow jumped out.

We began chatting with him - Pat was his name - and from what we could understand (I don’t think we’ll ever catch on to the Newfie dialect) he asked us, “Have you ever tried fresh cod?” When we responded that the only cod we’ve ever had was deep fried and from a restaurant, Pat responded with, “Well, I bes’ be gettin’ ye some, then.” He walked down the dock to his little fishing boat, untied the lines and was off.

We settled into our boondocking spot, and just poured a bevvie when we noted Pat coming back with a large bucket in hand. He’d only been gone for about 45 minutes, and he’d already caught, cleaned, and filleted five cod!

“How many ye want?” he asked.

“Oh, they’re pretty big,” I replied. “Just one should do.”

“Well, if yer only takin’ one, t’was hardly wort’ my while goin’ out, b’ye!”

“Well, how about two then.”

Mmmm, fresh cod fillets!

We offered him money for the fish, but Pat refused. So we offered him a beer, and he replied, “I quit that stuff years ago. Had to. Only way to keep me out of jail.”

Thirty minutes later, the steak we had planned was back in the fridge and we were feasting on freshly caught pan-fried cod with corn on the cob, wild rice pilaf, and cranberry sourdough loaf.

That was one of the best pieces of cod I’ve ever tasted, and one of the most memorable meals on this trip so far.

Oh, and did I mention it was our anniversary? We didn’t tell Pat, but he made our special day truly special.

Dinner is ready!

History right at our feet

 

If you're not an archaeologist, this is just junk

Ferryland, a small village a short one-hour’s drive south of St. John’s, was first visited by French and Portuguese fishermen in the 16th century. (The word Ferryland likely comes from the Portuguese word farelhão, meaning ‘small promontory’.) It was colonized by the British in 1623 and was the first capital of Newfoundland. Today, the area is home to the Colony of Avalon, a historical museum and active archaeological site.

We arrived at the museum just in time to join an excellent guided tour of the archaeological site, where we not only learned about the history and historical significance of the area, but watched (and even met) the archaeologists working on the site. For me, whose dreams of being an archaeologist were dashed when I was diagnosed with arthritis in my late teens, this was the next best thing!

Just a small part of the archaeological dig at Avalon

It may be the hat, but this archaeologist looks a bit like Indiana Jones!

Looking over the current dig site

Later, we did the 30-minute hike out to the Ferryland Lighthouse, and while we were enjoying the view, we struck up a conversation with a fellow named Billy Doyle (is that not a Newfie name, or what!) after asking him to take our photo. Turns out Billy’s a local, and the uncle of the woman who runs a company called Lighthouse Picnics. He said to us in his lovely Newfoundland accent, “Would you like a tour of the lighthouse keeper’s house?” A private tour of an 1870’s lighthouse keeper’s home? Of course, we said yes! Billy’s niece has leased the old house from the town (with hopes to purchase it outright one day) for her business, and has been slowly renovating the structure. Inside, there is now a commercial kitchen, but the rest of the house is still in (mostly) original condition – even down to the original floors. And all the while, Billy provided fascinating commentary on the history of the house, as well as how his niece has upgraded the house, and her hopes and plans for the future use of it.

The Ferryland Lighthouse

Inside the lighthouse keeper's home

It certainly pays to strike up a conversation with a stranger. Thanks for the tour, Billy!

St. John's, you deserve more than that

 

A view of St. John's and the harbour from Signal Hill

Although St. John’s was on our list of places to visit in Newfoundland, our main reason to make the trip to the capital and largest city in NL was to get new tires on the RV. After driving some rough roads, one of our tires had developed an odd wobble and needed to be replaced. Of course, the only tires available to fit the RV were in St. John’s. 

Once we got that out of the way, we stayed a couple extra days to see the sights. Well, admittedly, we only saw two sights. We did not visit the quaint fishing village of Quidi Vidi, we did not go to Bowring Park, or the Cape Spear Lighthouse, or visit the bars and pubs on George Street.

We did however drive the winding road through the Battery up to Signal Hill, and we did wander the criss-crossing streets (passing colourful jellybean row houses) on our way to The Rooms. We toured the visitor centre at Signal Hill and then hiked to the top for the traditional firing of the noon-day cannon. And we spent an entire day walking through The Rooms – Newfoundland and Labrador’s largest museum and art gallery.

Training day for the Signal Hill Tattoo

Cape Spear from Signal Hill

Firing of the noon-day cannon at Signal Hill

Colourful jellybean rowhouses of St. John's

Inside The Rooms

That was enough of St. John’s. We were too exhausted to see any more, so we left the rest for our next visit to the island.

Recommendations rarely fail us

 

Brigus

Brigus is a picturesque little town located on Conception Bay, just down the road from the town of Cupids, and only 80 kilometres from the capital of St. John’s. One of D’s hockey buddies recommended we visit there, and this recommendation did not disappoint!

The town was founded in 1612 (though oddly not incorporated until 1867) and is one of Newfoundland’s oldest settlements. To our delight, the town has maintained much of its heritage, and the streets are lined with homes dating back to the mid-19th century. Many visitors come to wander the rambling, paved streets (many of which were once meandering dirt-track cow paths) to photograph the lovingly restored homes and buildings like Hawthorne House, Kent Cottage, and the Stone Barn Museum.

Stone Barn Museum build in 1825 was once a doctor's house

This pretty house dates from 1869

St. Georges Heritage church - build in 1876

But one of the most intriguing and photographed sights in Brigus is most likely the Brigus Tunnel. A 30m long pathway leads you through a wall of solid rock from the town directly to a sheltered harbour on the other side. Blasted and drilled in 1860, the tunnel was built for Captain Abraham Bartlett. Bartlett owned a fishing vessel that was much too large to berth in the nearby harbour at Brigus, so he purchased land and hired a local miner to cut a hole in the rock large enough to allow horses and carts to go through with his precious cargo of fish.

Brigus Tunnel

At least, that’s what historians tells us. Local folklore tells a different story, one of rum runners and contraband and a pirate’s treasure. I must admit, standing inside that darkened tunnel, it was easy to imagine seeing the ghosts of those pirates sneaking by with their loot, rather than simply carting Bartlett’s fishy catch into the village.

No dildos here

 

No visit to Newfoundland would be complete without a stop in Dildo. We can now say we’ve “been there, done that”, and we even got our Dildo souvenir.

T-shirts, keychains, magnets, but no dildos

How exactly did the town of Dildo get its name? No one really knows for sure, but it’s been called that since at least 1711. Here are three (of the countless numbers of) possibilities:

1. To the early English settlers, the land formation in the area looked like a dildo – a word once used to refer to a phallic-shaped pin that acted as a pivot for the oar of a rowboat;

2. Nearby Dildo Island was originally named De l’ile de l’eau by the French, and over time the name was corrupted and became Dildo;

3. Mariners who were stuck waiting for enough wind to move their boats through the narrow channel called Dildo Run often said they were in the doldrums, or “dilly dollies”, which was eventually shortened to Dildo.

No matter how the town got its name, it still makes me giggle when I say, “We’ve been to Dildo.”

A detour – just for Tickles

 

John Cabot

One our way to St. John’s we made a detour through one of the more scenic areas of Newfoundland - the Bonavista Peninsula. John Cabot, an early explorer, set foot on land here in 1497, declaring it “O Buona Vista!” Cabot told two people, and they told two people, and so on, and by the early 16th Century, the town of Bonavista, one of the oldest communities in North America, was established.

Across the Bonavista Peninsula, tourists find many scenic locations – and I am pretty sure we stopped at them all. Cape Bonavista Lighthouse, completed in 1843, with its unique vertical red and white painted stripes. Dungeon Provincial Park, where the constant wave action has eroded the land to form an inland depression in the earth. The small town of Elliston, that claims to be the Root Cellar Capital of the World, and home to one of the largest and most photographed colonies of puffins in the province. And Tickle Cove, with its majestic carved rock arch.

Tickle Cove?

We’ve come across the word tickle a lot in Newfoundland – from seeing place names on the map we refer to every night as we plan our next day’s route, to road signs we pass along the way. There’s Tickle Harbour, Leading Tickles, Burnt Island Tickle, and my personal favourite - Pinchgut Tickle. Apparently, there are over 300 place names featuring Tickle in Newfoundland and Labrador.

So, what is a Tickle? The Dictionary of Newfoundland English defines a tickle as, “A narrow salt-water strait, as in an entrance to a harbour or between islands or other land masses, often difficult or treacherous to navigate because of narrowness, tides, etc; a ‘settlement’ adjoining such a passage.” With over 17,000 kilometres of coastline in NL, it’s no wonder there are a lot of tickles.

Well, I’m just tickled that we’ve been able to visit a few of them on this trip, along with all the other beautiful places we've seen.

Cape Bonavista Lighthouse

Looking down into 'The Dungeon'

One of the root cellars at Elliston

Puffins!

Couldn't resist getting a snapshot of this

The arch at Tickle Cove